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像绅士一样优雅
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<table width='760' border='0' cellspacing='0' cellpadding='0'> <tr> <td align='center' class='txt18' height='50'>像绅士一样优雅 </td> </tr> <tr> <td align='center' bgcolor='#000000'><img src='http://imgs.xinhuanet.com/icon/xilan/blank.gif' width='1' height='1'></td> </tr> <tr> <td align='center'><img src='http://imgs.xinhuanet.com/icon/xilan/blank.gif' width='1' height='2'></td> </tr> <tr bgcolor='#003483'> <td align='center' class='wht12' height='20'>www.XINHUANET.com 2006年03月06日 08:29:48 来源：金羊网-- 新快报</td> </tr> </table>
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<P> 在过去超过五年时间里，优雅、性感、女人味十足的时装统治着整个女装世界。人们的眼球习惯了雪纺、绢纱、长裙和短裙。最后一次见到模特自信饱满地穿着裤装频频出现在T型台上是在上世纪90年代HelmutLang和JilSander处于巅峰时期的时候。时尚“轮回”的规律让我们能自信地确定：女性的英武气质一定会回来。从这一个春天开始，女装的“男性主义”终于抬头了。不是Lang和Sander回来了，而是设计界中那些年轻人重新给女性注入了阳气。
<P> “女男装”在时尚界有着很好的传统。上世纪70年代，YvesSaintLaurent开创了“女男装”的先河，在男性化的剪裁下，他的女士裤装强调女性的独立、典雅和华贵，一如YSL的时装风格一样。上世纪80年代，我们看到了GiorgioArmani自由式“女男装”的兴起。上世纪90年代，CalvinKlein简约、干练的“女男装”改变了人们对女性的审美观，而Versace则继续他们的性感路线。Lang和Sander的现代“女男装”则在简洁中带点粗犷的气质。
<P> 新一季流行的“女男装”和以往的有所不同，我们不妨用Rochas年轻的设计师OlivierTheyskens的话来诠释：“女裤装一定要感性，不能像男西装那么硬朗和帅气，可以随意一点。”新“女男装”在款式和材质上显然更加多元化，丝绸质的，牛仔布的；宽肩的，削肩的；长的，短的；宽裤腿，窄裤腿；高腰，低腰。总体来讲，欧洲设计师的“女男装”沿袭了欧洲时装的古典和浓重，美国设计师的则带有明显的运动装痕迹，更加的休闲和舒适。“女男装”的热潮也引起了男装设计师的兴趣，他们纷纷拿起剪刀为女士量体裁衣。英国以制造男式西服闻名于世，一些著名的英国西装裁缝现在甚至开始制作少量适合女士穿着的小尺码男西装，或者干脆用男性的眼光为女士设计套装，NeilBarrett便是其中的一个。
<P> 随着男装潮的兴起，男士的领带自然也成为了借鉴的重点对象，成为春季里另一道亮丽的风景。
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