📄 12v flourescent lamp inverter.htm
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<P>The emitter outputs at pins 9 and 10 are pulled down via 1kW resistors
and they each drive three paralleled buffers in IC2. Mosfets Q1 and Q2
drive the transformer as described previously to develop the high voltage
supply across T1's secondary winding. High frequency rectifiers D1-D4
convert the AC waveform into a DC voltage and this is filtered with a
470nF 630V capacitor (C4). The 10nF 3kV capacitor (C3) is included so that
it can be placed directly between the drain of Q3 and the source of Q4 to
provide decoupling of this supply. This limits voltage overshoot as Q3
& Q4 switch on and off. Left uncontrolled, too much voltage overshoot
can damage the Mosfets.</P>
<P>Feedback from the high voltage DC output is derived from a resistive
divider comprising two series 270kW resistors and an 8.2kW resistor. The
resulting voltage across the 8.2kW resistor is applied to internal error
amplifier 1 in IC1 at pin 1. The divider ratio is such that pin 1 will be
5V when the DC voltage is 334V. The DC gain of the error amplifier is 213
times, as set by the 1MΩ and 4.7kW resistors at pin 2. The 47kW resistor
and 100nF capacitor across the 1MΩ feedback resistor provide fast AC
response from the circuit.</P>
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<DIV class=wpcaption>Scope5: These waveforms show tube voltage and current
when the tube is in starting mode. Top trace is the tube current while the
lower trace is the voltage across the tube. Operating frequency is
62kHz.</DIV></DIV>
<P>This op amp is referenced to +5V (pin 14) via the 4.7kW resistor. Thus
its output at pin 3 will be +5V if the high voltage DC level is 334V but
will go lower than this if the DC voltage falls. As mentioned previously,
the op amp output is compared with the sawtooth oscillator waveform to
control the PWM drive to the Mosfets.</P>
<P>Power to IC1 and IC2 is supplied via a 10W resistor from the 12V supply
and filtered with a 100mF capacitor. A 16V zener diode protects the
circuit from high voltage transients. The main current supply to
transformer T1 is supplied via inductor L1 and filtered with the 470mF
electrolytic capacitor. The 100nF and 470nF capacitors are included to
supply the high frequency peak currents demanded by the switch-mode
operation of T1. </P>
<P>Reverse polarity protection is provided with fuse F1 in conjunction
with the substrate diodes of Mosfets Q1 & Q2. Should the battery
connection leads be transposed, the diode within Q1 or Q2 conducts and the
fuse will blow. IC1 and IC2 are protected via zener diode ZD1 which will
also limit the positive supply voltage to -0.7V below ground.</P>
<P>Supply to IC3 comes from the 12V rail via a 100W current limiting
resistor which prevents possible damage to the internal zener diode at pin
12. This zener also protects the IC from reverse polarity connection. The
supply is decoupled with 100mF and 100nF capacitors. The high side driver
supply capacitor Cboot is 100nF in value.</P>
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<DIV class=wpcaption>Scope6: The tube current and voltage at maximum
brightness. The frequency has now dropped to 33kHz and current is higher.
Notice that the voltage waveforms are reasonably clean, producing much
less radio interference than from a fluorescent tube operated with a
conventional ballast. </DIV></DIV>
<P>Frequency of operation during preignition is set at around 100kHz by
the 470pF capacitor at pin 3 and the Rpre value at pin 2. Preheat time is
fixed at 1.5s using the 1μF capacitor at pin 1. Note that this capacitor
must have very low leakage since its charging current is only 2mA. For
this reason, we have specified a polyester type in this position; do not
substitute an electrolytic.</P>
<P>After the filament preheat, the frequency falls to about 33kHz, set by
the 100kW resistor at pin 4. Before this low frequency is reached, the
tube is ignited at the series resonant frequency of L2 and the 3.3nF
capacitor across the tube. This occurs at around 60kHz.</P>
<P>The resulting tube current flows through the 1.2W resistor at Q4's
source and the voltage developed across it is monitored via a 10kW
resistor at pin 6, the inverting input of an internal op amp. The
non-inverting input to the op amp is connected to the wiper of VR1 via a
10kW resistor. A 100nF capacitor between the inverting input to the op amp
and the output filters the resulting output and this controls the value of
R<FONT size=1>IGN</FONT> at pin 4 via diode D5. </P>
<P>When pin 5 of the op amp is high, diode D5 is reverse biased and the
frequency of operation is simply set by the 100kW resistor at pin 4, to
33kHz. When pin 5 is low, R<FONT size=1>IGN</FONT> is the 100kW resistor
to ground in parallel with the 47kW resistor connecting to diode D5. The
frequency of oscillation thus rises.</P>
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<DIV class=wpcaption>The PC board mounted in the fluoro batten. It doesn't
take up much space - in fact, there's plenty of room inside the batten for
some gell cell batteries and maybe a charger for an emergency light. Gee,
we could be onto something here . . .</DIV></DIV>
<P>The internal op amp can therefore control the frequency of operation in
a feedback loop where it monitors the tube current against the reference
set by potentiometer VR1. Varying the frequency also changes the tube
current (and brightness) because the impedance of inductor L2 increases as
the frequency rises.</P>
<P>The enable 2 (EN2) input at pin 9 is used to cause the circuit to begin
preheating again if the tube does not fire. Two series 750kW resistors and
a 3.9kW resistor divide the voltage at the top of the tube down to a low
value which is then rectified by diode D6 and fed to pin 9. </P>
<P>If the tube does not fire after the first preheat and ignition
sequence, the voltage across the tube will remain much higher than if the
tube had fired and started. If the voltage at pin 9 exceeds the 0.6V
threshold, the ignition process will repeat until the tube fires and
lights. In practice, the tube may need to undergo several preheat
sequences when the temperature is low or if it is an old tube, but will
fire on the first attempt when the tube is warm.</P>
<H3>Construction</H3>
<P>The Fluorescent Inverter is built on a long narrow PC board coded
11109021 and measuring 340 x 45mm. It fits easily into in a standard
fluorescent 36/40W batten. Its wiring diagram is shown in Fig.5.</P>
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<DIV class=wpcaption>Fig.5: at 340mm long, the PC board component overlay
is a tad long to fit on one page. If you need to cut the board to fit it
into, say, an odd-shaped fluoro lamp (eg, circular), the logical place
would be across the screw holes, four diodes and 270kW
resistor.</DIV></DIV>
<P>You can begin assembly by checking the PC board for shorts between
tracks and possible breaks in the copper pattern. Also check that the hole
sizes are suitable for the components. </P>
<P>The six mounting holes, the heatsink mounting tab holes and cable tie
holes should be 3mm in diameter, while holes for the screw terminals and
fuse clips need to be 1.5mm in diameter. </P>
<P>Insert the wire links and resistors first, using the resistor colour
codes as a guide to selecting the correct values. You can also use a
digital multimeter to check the values directly. Then install the ICs and
diodes, taking care with their orientation.</P>
<P>Install the capacitors next, using the Table as a guide. Make sure that
the high voltage 470nF and 10nF capacitors are installed in the correct
positions. If you inadvertently put the low voltage capacitors in the
wrong positions, they will blow at switch-on.</P>
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<DIV class=wpcaption>Fig.5: ...continued.</DIV></DIV>
<P>When inserting the two fuse clips, note that they have little end stops
which must be placed to the outside edge to allow the fuse to be clipped
in place. The screw terminals can be inserted and soldered in place. When
inserting the two heatsinks, bend the mounting lugs over on the underside
of the PC board to secure them in place.</P>
<P>Insert the Mosfets, taking care to put the correct type in each
position. Q1 and Q2 are screwed to their heatsinks with an M3 screw and
nut before they are soldered to the PC board. Potent-iometer VR1 can now
be installed.</P>
<DIV style="CLEAR: both"></DIV>
<TABLE class=breakout>
<TBODY>
<TR>
<TD class=breakoutCell>
<DIV class=breakoutTitle>How to run an 18W tube</DIV>
<P>As night follows day, we know that people will soon be asking us
how to run this circuit with different sizes of fluorescent tube.
Well at least we can forestall one of the queries - how to run an
18W tube.</P>
<P>The changes required are simple:<BR>Increase the turns on each
half of the split inductor for L2 up to 50 (total of 100) and
increase the 1.2<FONT face=Symbol>W</FONT> current sensing resistor
to 2.2<FONT face=Symbol>W</FONT>.</P>
<P>These changes will also have the effect of making the dimming
control more effective.</P></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<H3>Winding the toroids</H3>
<P>Three cores need to be wound, for L1, L2 and transformer T1. The
winding details are shown in Fig.6.</P>
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<DIV class=wpcaption>Fig.6: winding details for the inductors and inverter
transformer. L2 is held in place with three small cable ties,
daisy-chained to lock it in place.</DIV></DIV>
<P>Beginning with L1, use a 28 x 14 x 11mm iron powdered toroidal core and
wind on six evenly spaced turns of 1mm diameter enamelled copper wire.
Strip the wire ends of insulation and tin them (with solder) before
soldering to the PC board. Secure the toroid with two 100mm cable ties
daisy-chained to extend the length and through the holes allocated on the
PC board.</P>
<P>Transformer T1 is wound on a 35 x 21 x 13mm ferrite toroid. First wind
on the secondary 134 turns of 0.4mm diameter enamelled copper wire. Wind
these tightly together around the core, leaving a few millimetres spacing
between the start and finish ends of the windings. </P>
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<DIV class=wpcaption>Close-up photos of L1, T1 and L2 (as shown in Fig.6)
to help you with their construction. The winding on L1 occupied about 3/4
of the toroid while the secondary of T1 (which goes on first) occupies all
of its toroid.</DIV></DIV>
<P>Fit a cable tie between the start and finish of this winding to
maintain the separation, then insert the wire ends into the relevant PC
board holes and temporarily tie them together, under the PC board.</P>
<P>The primary windings are wound over the secondary. Strip a 3mm length
of insulation from one end of some 7.5A-rated (0.75mm2) hookup wire and
solder it into the S1 hole of the PC board, as shown on Fig.5. </P>
<P>Now wind on four turns in the direction shown and then cut and strip
the wire insulation at a length suitable for inserting into the F1 hole.
Solder this wire in position. Note that the windings must be reasonably
tight around the toroid.</P>
<P>Then wind the second primary winding in the same manner, starting in
the S2 hole and finishing at the F2 hole in the direction shown. It sounds
tricky bit you will find that you can easily thread the hookup wire under
and through the toroid.</P>
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