📄 windmeter - anemometer by infidigm.htm
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<P><A href="http://www.infidigm.net/projects/windmeter/step22.jpg"><IMG
height=86 src="Windmeter - Anemometer by Infidigm.files/step22s.jpg"
width=115 align=right></A> <B>Step 22</B> Draw three lines on the top of
the 4" cap that originate from the center. Draw the lines 120 degs apart
and continue the line 1/2" down the side of the cap as shown. Mark 3 lines
(one on each 120 deg line) 1/4" down from the top of the pipe cap,
perpendicular to the 120 deg lines as shown.</P></TD>
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<P><A href="http://www.infidigm.net/projects/windmeter/step23.jpg"><IMG
height=86 src="Windmeter - Anemometer by Infidigm.files/step23s.jpg"
width=115 align=right></A> <B>Step 23</B> Drill three 1/4" holes parallel
to the top of the pipe cap at each of the markings as shown.</P></TD>
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<P><A href="http://www.infidigm.net/projects/windmeter/step24.jpg"><IMG
height=86 src="Windmeter - Anemometer by Infidigm.files/step24s.jpg"
width=115 align=right></A> <B>Step 24</B> Take the three smaller halves of
the plastic kinder surprise shells. Mark on each of them their diameter
(center/middle line) 1/2" up each side. Then mark a line 3/16" up from the
edge on each side perpendicular to the diameter markings. Drill a 1/4"
hole in each side of each shell at the markings.</P></TD>
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<P><A href="http://www.infidigm.net/projects/windmeter/step25.jpg"><IMG
height=86 src="Windmeter - Anemometer by Infidigm.files/step25s.jpg"
width=115 align=right></A> <B>Step 25</B> Cut 3 pieces of the 1/4" steel
rod to 9" in length. Slide a kinder surprise shell over each of the 9"
1/4" steel rods as shown. Leave 1/16" sticking out past the end.</P></TD>
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<P><A href="http://www.infidigm.net/projects/windmeter/step26.jpg"><IMG
height=86 src="Windmeter - Anemometer by Infidigm.files/step26s.jpg"
width=115 align=right></A> <B>Step 26</B> Insert the other ends of the
1/4" rods into the 4" PVC pipe cap as shown. The rods should extend 1/4"
past the inside wall of the pipe cap. Make the cups (ks shells) face all
the same way for clockwise rotation. Be sure that the cups are straight up
and down. Epoxy the 1/4" rods to the pipe cap both inside and out. Epoxy
the rods to the cups on both sides, inside and out.</P></TD>
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<P><A href="http://www.infidigm.net/projects/windmeter/step27.jpg"><IMG
height=86 src="Windmeter - Anemometer by Infidigm.files/step27s.jpg"
width=115 align=right></A> <B>Step 27</B> Using a knife or sandpaper, make
the surface around the 11/32" hole in the center of the pipe cap flat for
the washers to sit on. Attach the pipe cap to the 5/16" shaft with a M8
nut and washer on both sides of the cap. Tighten the nuts together.
Silicone the top nut to seal the hole in the cap.</P></TD>
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<P><A href="http://www.infidigm.net/projects/windmeter/step28a.jpg"><IMG
height=100 src="Windmeter - Anemometer by Infidigm.files/step28as.jpg"
width=115 align=right></A><A
href="http://www.infidigm.net/projects/windmeter/step28b.jpg"><IMG
height=100 src="Windmeter - Anemometer by Infidigm.files/step28bs.jpg"
width=115 align=right></A> <B>Step 28</B> Find out the length of the tower
the windmeter will be mounted on. Cut a length of catagory-5 cable
(network cable) that is slightly longer than the tower (max 200 feet = 61
meters). Take two of the four pars of wire and strip the four wires. Twist
the two white (return) wires from both of the pars together and solder
them to pin 5 on the serial connector. Connect one of the remaining wires
to pin 2 and the other remaining wire to pin 3 on the serial connector.
Slide the other end of the cat-5 cable up through the pipe (on the
windmeter) from the bottom to the top. Take the same two pars on this end
and strip the four wires. Twist the two white wires from both of the pars
together. Look at the parts placement diagram and connect the white wires
to the serial connection on the circuit board marked Pin 5. Connect the
remaining wire that is soldered to pin 2 on the serial connector to the
serial connection on the circuit board marked Pin 2. Due the same for the
remaining Pin 3 wire.</P>
<P><B>Note:</B> It is necessary to use cat-5 cable opposed to regular
telephone cable due to EMI. It was noticed that when regular telephone
cable was used, the windmeter would reset during lightning storms. Using
cat-5 in this manner solved the problem.</P></TD>
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<P><A href="http://www.infidigm.net/projects/windmeter/step29c.jpg"><IMG
height=86 src="Windmeter - Anemometer by Infidigm.files/step29cs.jpg"
width=115 align=right></A> <A
href="http://www.infidigm.net/projects/windmeter/step29b.jpg"><IMG
height=86 src="Windmeter - Anemometer by Infidigm.files/step29bs.jpg"
width=115 align=right></A><A
href="http://www.infidigm.net/projects/windmeter/step29a.jpg"><IMG
height=86 src="Windmeter - Anemometer by Infidigm.files/step29as.jpg"
width=115 align=right></A> <B>Step 29</B> Pull the excess wire from the
solar panel out of the pipe. Cut a 4" and a 12" length of wire from the
excess. Put female tabs one end of the 4" piece to connect to the battery.
Strip the other end. Strip one end of the 12" piece. Solder one of the 4"
wires to one of the 12" wires and to one of the solar panel wires. Solder
the other 4" wire to the other 12" wire and to the other solar panel wire.
Wrap the connections in black tape. Strip 1/8" of the other end of the 12"
piece. Measure the voltage on the two wires to determine which is positive
and negative. Look at the parts placement diagram to see were to solder
the wires to the circuit board. Connect the (+) tab to the (+) on the
battery and then the negative tab.</P>
<P>If these wiring instructions are confusing, hopefully this diagram
clears things up. <IMG height=246
src="Windmeter - Anemometer by Infidigm.files/step29d.jpg" width=483
align=center></P></TD>
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<H3>Parts List</H3>
<TABLE>
<TBODY>
<TR>
<TD>Quantity</TD>
<TD>Description</TD>
<TD>Supplier</TD>
<TD>Part No.</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD>1</TD>
<TD>5 min Epoxy</TD>
<TD>Home Depot</TD>
<TD>B 110-607</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD>1</TD>
<TD>3" ABS Pipe - 6' length</TD>
<TD>Home Depot</TD>
<TD>A 120-784</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD>1</TD>
<TD>4" PVC Pipe Cap</TD>
<TD>Home Depot</TD>
<TD>650-580</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD>1</TD>
<TD>2'x2' - 1/2" plywood</TD>
<TD>Home Depot</TD>
<TD>C 434-561</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD>1</TD>
<TD>1/2" wood dowel - 2' length</TD>
<TD>Home Depot</TD>
<TD>A 115-256</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD>1</TD>
<TD>5/16" Steel Shaft - 36" length</TD>
<TD>Home Depot</TD>
<TD>142-006</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD>1</TD>
<TD>1/4" Steel Shaft - 36" length</TD>
<TD>Home Depot</TD>
<TD>142-004</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD>1</TD>
<TD>8-1.25" wood screws (10)</TD>
<TD>Home Depot</TD>
<TD>846-052</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD>2</TD>
<TD>M8 1.25mm Nuts</TD>
<TD>Home Depot</TD>
<TD>(BIN# 128522) 670-008</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD>2</TD>
<TD>M8 Washers</TD>
<TD>Home Depot</TD>
<TD>(BIN# 128558) 730-008</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD>2</TD>
<TD>5" 1/4"-20 bolts</TD>
<TD>Home Depot</TD>
<TD>(BIN# 124228) 275-326</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD>2</TD>
<TD>1/4"-20 nuts</TD>
<TD>Home Depot</TD>
<TD>(BIN# 131585) 083-114</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD>3</TD>
<TD>Maxi Kinder Surprise Shells</TD>
<TD><A href="http://www.mikesgeneralstore.com/">Mike's General Store -
Winnipeg</A></TD>
<TD>2002 CHRISTMAS KINDER MAXI EGG</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD>1</TD>
<TD>3/16"x1" balsa wood - 6" length</TD>
<TD>Hobby store</TD>
<TD></TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD>1</TD>
<TD>608 bearings (Roller blade) - shielded</TD>
<TD>Sports Center</TD>
<TD></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<H3>Tools Needed</H3>
<P>Here is a list of the major tools that were used to make the mechanical parts
of the Windmeter.</P>
<UL>
<LI>Small Drill Press or Drill
<LI>1/2" Drill bit
<LI>1/4" Drill bit
<LI>5/16" Drill bit
<LI>11/32" Drill bit
<LI>1/4" Drill Bit
<LI>7/8" Wood Drill Bit
<LI>Hack-saw
<LI>Jigsaw
<LI>M8-1.25mm die </LI></UL>
<H2>Electronics for the Windmeter / Anemometer</H2><A
href="http://www.infidigm.net/projects/windmeter/board.jpg"><IMG height=258
src="Windmeter - Anemometer by Infidigm.files/board-s.jpg" width=345
align=right></A>
<H3>Circuit Description</H3>
<P><A
href="http://www.infidigm.net/projects/windmeter/wmsch.jpg">Schematic</A></P>
<P>The circuit for the Windmeter is <B>self powered</B>. A 12v solar cell array
provides power to the circuit and charges the battery during the day. At night
the 12v battery is used to power the circuit. Operation for many days without
sunlight is required, so the circuit operates at 3.3v and uses a high efficiency
switching power supply. The circuit draws 2.75 mA at 12v. The circuit should
operate for over 30 days without sunlight from a fully charged battery. The
solar cell will take 3.5 days to fully charge a dead battery. The circuit should
never loose power.</P>
<P>Power enters the circuit through D1 to prevent reverse battery connection.
C10 is used as a input filtering capacitor while C11 is used as a input
de-coupling capacitor. U3, L1, D2, and C12 form the switching power supply. R3
is used to wake / enable U3.</P>
<P>A magnet and Hall effect sensor are used to measure RPM of the rotating cups.
One pulse per revolution is produced. The sensor is on the back of the PCB and
the magnet is attached to the rotating shaft. Microcontroller U2 is used to
calculate wind speed from the pulses produced by the Hall sensor. The micro also
records the varying speeds and provides a interface to a Laptop / computer. U1,
a low power RS232 1 channel driver, is used to join the PC serial port and the
micro's UART. C2 - C5 are used by the RS232 Driver IC to form charge pumps. C1,
C6, C7, C13 are used as bypass / de-coupling capacitors throughout the circuit.
C8, C9 are used to help start oscillation. The crystal of 4.096 Mhz was selected
for easy and accurate time measurement. R1, R2 are used to form a voltage
divider which feeds ADC channel 0 to measure Supply voltage.</P>
<H3>Assembly</H3>
<P>A PCB Layout is provided. Simply print the file onto an overhead
transparency. (Get the correct sheet for your type of printer) I used a kit by
MG Chemicals (<A href="http://www.future-active.com/">Active</A> or <A
href="http://www.e-sonic.com/">E-Sonic</A> Search for 416-K) to produce my PCB.
The provided PCB layout's smallest traces are 10 thou wide. Drill all holes at
35 thou. Small drill bits can be found at most hobby stores. Holes are needed
for the serial cable (3), Hall sensor (3), crystal (3), battery wires (2), and 3
jumpers (3*2=6). Drill two 3/16" mounting holes on each side of the board to
line up with the vertical dowels on the Windmeter.</P><A
href="http://www.infidigm.net/projects/windmeter/back.jpg"><IMG height=86
src="Windmeter - Anemometer by Infidigm.files/back-s.jpg" width=115
align=right></A>
<P>Once the PCB is complete, population is next. Please review the <A
href="http://www.infidigm.net/projects/windmeter/wmpp.jpg">Parts Placement
diagram</A> before beginning and throughout assembly. Begin by soldering U1 and
U2. U2 is a 0.031" pitch and U1 is a 0.0255 pitch. Please see <A
href="http://www.infidigm.net/articles/solder/index.html">Infidigm's soldering
guide</A> for instructions on soldering small pitches. Next solder U3 which is a
SO8 package. Continue by soldering L1, D2 and D1. Solder all resistors and
capacitors being mindful of Tantalum Caps C10, C12 polarity (Bar = Pos+). Solder
the crystal and the programming connector on the top side of the board. Place
the three jumpers and hall effect sensor on the back side of the board and
solder in place. Fold the hall effect sensor so that it is flat against the
circuit board as shown.</P>
<H3>Programming</H3>
<P><IMG height=138 src="Windmeter - Anemometer by Infidigm.files/prog-s.jpg"
width=184 align=right> Programming the microcontroller is the next step. The
micro is a <A href="http://www.atmel.com/atmel/products/prod23.htm">AVR
ATmega8</A> made by ATMEL. An AVR ISP (Incircuit Serial Programmer) compatible
programmer is required. Here is a list of programmers.</P>
<UL>
<LI><A href="http://www.digikey.com/">STK500 Development board</A> (Search for
STK500) .
<LI><A href="http://www.avrfreaks.com/Tools/showtools.php?ToolID=204">ATMEL
Low Cost ISP</A>
<LI><A href="http://www.lancos.com/e2p/avrisp-stk200.gif">Make you own AVR
ISP.</A> Replace D1 with 1N5817 and use 6-pin connector instead of 10 pin
</LI></UL>Connect the ISP to circuit. Be sure that pin 1 of the ISP cable goes
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